Among our steady
clients, we have several converts who, except for traditional pearl
strands and fun pieces, did not wear much "beaded" jewelry before
discovering Arpaia Fine Jewelry. They did not associate gemstone
"beads" with fine jewelry. Regarding gem quality stones, the main
difference between a gemstone bead and a set gemstone is that the bead
is drilled (center drilled, top drilled, side drilled,
etc.). As gemstone beads become more popular, we are seeing more and
more sensational smooth and faceted cuts and shapes available. A
gemstone bead can have just as good cut, color and clarity as a set
gemstone. Gemstone beads, especially precious stones, can be very
expensive due to the carat loss (material waste) involved to achieve
the desired cut, typical 360 degree faceting, and to produce the drill
hole. So gemstone strands can be very enticing and extremely high end.
Our luxury pearl
and gemstone strands are refined and glamorous, feel light as air on
and are comfortably soft to wear. Clients often ask what makes our
strands so sumptuous in look and feel. As always, we are thrilled to
share and thought our website visitors might also find this topic
interesting. At the top of this page, we identified several features
of Arpaia Fine Jewelry strung jewelry: graceful elegance, delicate
beauty, luxurious look and supple drape. Selecting lovely gems and components for each design is a great start and this process can take months even when keeping things simple, but design and materials are just the start. For truly lovely pieces you need attention to detail at every stage in the follow through. Below are some of the post-design steps
we undertake to accomplish these tasks:
Sparkling Clean Components.
Starting with really clean dry components is an absolute must. After the design work is done and all gems, metals, clasp and finishing
parts selected, we thoroughly clean everything separately by safe gentle methods. To avoid watermarks and keep things spanky clean, we cool blow dry all components completely, and as necessary, polish dry with a
soft clean microfiber cloth.
We let all components sit the next day. We call it "air drying" even though it's all completely dry. This break provides an opportunity to look over the materials to make sure everything is exactly right. Things look different when really clean. For example, where we initially selected certain gold beads, after cleaning they might look too bright for the particular design (the color tone changed after all the handworking firescale, oils and jeweler's rouge was cleaned off); so, we would select more fitting gold beads for the project.
The Right Stringing Material.
We typically use silk thread or stainless steel cable wire specifically made for
jewelry making. We keep lots of options on hand to enable us to pick
the stringing material most suited for the project. Some selections are limited or even dictated by the color of
the gemstones, the weight of the beads, or the size of the drill holes
(for example, diamond beads have very small drill holes and
require thinner stringing materials than many other stones). The right stringing material fulfills
function (sufficient strength and proper drape) as well as design - we
prefer a wire that either disappears or enhances the look of the
gemstones or open metalwork such as filigree beads.
Exacting Calibration. We love hand faceted and hand smooth-polished
gemstone beads; their beauty is exceptionally compelling. With artisan
craftsmanship, even extremely well matched gemstones tend to be
irregular in size and shape. Spacial relationships are important in jewelry. To
make a visually stunning strand with wow factor it is necessary to
achieve balance and harmony by proper placement of the gemstones along
the strand. Whether graduated in size or similar size, hand fashioned gemstones need to be conscientiously placed in their best possible position. Though we use precise measurement methods to assist us, when working with irregularly shaped and sized gemstones we also must incorporate visual cues to yield the best results. The
calibration process takes time and several tries; we do not stop until
the overall drape and look are most appealing and the piece
possesses a real easy sensuality. When working with 15 or 16" of very small
gemstones, it typically takes about 16 hours just to place the gemstones
along the strand. Then, once the gemstones and any other adornments
are in the right place, we restring the entire piece on brand new
stringing wire (calibration compromises the integrity of stringing
materials, so once the piece is just right, only then do we create the
permanent strand with brand new stringing materials and findings).
Structural Engineering. Gemstones come alive when worn. There is something so sexy and gorgeous about gemstones against the skin. Soft flexible drape fosters proximity of strung jewelry with body curvature even during movement. Great
drape doesn't just happen - it's created, and usually structural
engineering is required to make it happen. Conversely, there may be
times when a necklace needs strength and form to maintain good shape.
Whether a soft drape or strong form is needed, structural engineering
can assist. Arpaia often asks Lang, as a goldsmith, to handmake high
karat gold grommets and other tiny findings that she uses as purely
functional parts in the internal makings of the design, hidden in the
structural form so they do not show and interrupt the flow and beauty
of the outside design.
Fine Finishing.
In addition to how a piece drapes and looks, the finishing can be
strong evidence of overall quality and workmanship. Unless purposely a
part of the design, rough hewn finishing can result from inexperience
or lesser craftsmanship (e.g., quick nonchallant assembly of
components into a completed piece of jewelry). Expert craftsmanship
will include very fine finishing details. At Arpaia Fine Jewelry, we
spend an inordinate amount of time finishing our pearl and gemstone
strand pieces. The strand must be as perfectly attached to the clasp
as we can possibly achieve. Time is not a factor in finishing. We
take hours to finish a piece, not minutes. The end result must look
great - the finishing must be refined, smooth, neat, and strong. In
addition, great finishing encompasses proper tension of the strand
which is essential to creating the ultimate drape we desire. Outer
craftsmanship evidences inner craftsmanship. Refined
details show expert craftsmanship and hint that as much attention was
paid to the internal workmanship of the piece as to its outer beauty. Like most great
achievements, enticing strung jewelry is all in the details.